February 10, 2015

A NEW KIND OF BUTTON UP // DEER AND DOE BRUYÈRE

I've been an Archer devotee for as long as it's been a pattern (I purchased it in March of 2013), and I've made about 9 or 10. BUT! I've got a new type of button up in my life now - the Deer and Doe Bruyère!

Pattern: Deer and Doe Bruyère
Size: 44
Modifications: None
Fabric: Robert Kaufman chambray dots in burgundy
Worn with: Ginger Jeans #2


Many patterns require some convincing for me to make them (I'm a creature of habit) - either they don't seem my style at first, the fabrics used in the samples aren't something I normally sew with, etc. - and Bruyère was no exception. Because I love the Archer so much, I wasn't sure Bruyère was my style/taste. However, it only took a few bloggers (Tilly, Paunnet, By Sandra's Hand, The Quirky Peach) to assure me that this was, indeed, totally my style. It's more feminine than the Archer, and it really suits a curvier figure.


I made this up in my normal Deer and Doe size (44) - and everything fits really well (Deer and Doe drafts for C cups - which I happen to be). The only fitting issue might be that the waistband seems slightly snug, and I might size up next time. (While taking these photos, I realized just how snug it really is...)


I did have a few issues with the pattern, but they're all due to personal preference. I don't really care for the fiddly sleeve placket (see below) - I found it to be kind of a squirrelly way to go about things. I also cut too close to the edge or something because it's fairly messed up and fraying. Luckily I pretty much always wear my sleeves rolled up. I think next time I'll use the tower placket drafting/construction from here.

Another issue I have is with the front yoke/facings. I really hate facings (too much extra bulk) - but I can understand why they're used here. The shirt doesn't have a collar stand, the front edges get folded in on themselves to create the button bands - and the front yokes help seal all that up nicely. I'm not sure how to eliminate the front yoke (I guess by drafting a collar stand?) - so I'll probably do this again next time... but I won't like it! :D


The fabric I used is a Robert Kaufman chambray in burgundy with little white dots all over it - and I love it! I bought it several months ago with some Kaufman denim with no real plans for it, and it works perfectly here. I will say that the fabric gets pretty wrinkly - so bear that in mind if you use it in the future (I've had to iron it every time I wear it *yuck* and I think it may have shrunk a wee bit).

I love this shirt so much - and I have some plans for future versions: sleeveless, lengthened into a dress, and shortened a bit for a more "standard" length button up shirt (this runs a wee bit long).
 Any Archer lovers out there thinking about giving this a try?

10 comments:

  1. Beautiful! I just made a bruyere and got it up on my blog yesterday and looking at yours I really wish I would have gone for a colored chambray instead of the denim blue chambray that I used. Oh well, next time! Yours is beautiful!

    ReplyDelete
  2. Thanks, Erin! Your blue chambray is gorgeous! And it's always good to have staples - yours can go with anything!

    ReplyDelete
  3. This looks great Katie! The fabric really suits the design too. I have this pattern but have yet to make it up as I am a little obsessed with Archer still. I think the tower placket would be awesome on it too - I've used that tutorial and it's pretty easy and it looks really sharp. Can't wait to see your next versions!

    ReplyDelete
  4. This is so pretty on you! I don't really like to wear shirts that are fitted through the waist, so it's probably not for me, but it looks so nice on everyone I've seen who's made it!

    ReplyDelete
  5. Thank you, Heather!!!! It's a nice change from Archer's silhouette (even though I think I like Archer more). I think I may even start doing the tower placket on my Archers in the future - it's just fancier! :D

    ReplyDelete
  6. Thanks, Sonja!! It's definitely quite fitted in the waist (and a bit restricting when you wear it on Christmas like I did the first time... oof) - but I bet you could still rock it if you wanted to!

    ReplyDelete
  7. Your version is so lovely! I made a Bruyere a few months ago and this reminds me that I need to make another! It's such a great silhouette. And I'm with you on the Archer love too - I think I've made about five so far!

    ReplyDelete
  8. It's so beautifully made! That top stitching! Jealous! TBH it's not a pattern that appeals to me personally but it does give a lovely feminine shape. I think lengthened to a dress would be gorgeous on you.

    ReplyDelete
  9. Thanks, Lindsay! Yours is such a pretty color! And you should definitely make another - I feel like I can never have too many collared shirts (and it's great to have options when it comes to shape)!

    ReplyDelete
  10. Thank you, Sarah!! Edge stitching foot for the win! And I can't wait to try it as a dress - it's a wee bit too short for leggings, and a wee bit too long for jeans (in my opinion).

    ReplyDelete