December 1, 2014
SILK SUTTON // TRUE BIAS
Pattern: True Bias Sutton Blouse
Modifications: Evened up the high-low hem
Fabric: Silk from Michael Levine in DTLA (not sure what kind, but it's a bit grippy)
Worn with: My Ginger Jeans!! (which I wear every day)
[Cue music] Back in the saddle again! It's been a fast and busy few weeks between work and the holiday, but there's a glimmer of time now before it all ramps up again. I hope everyone had a Happy Thanksgiving!!
I finished this shirt a few weeks ago - and it's the first silk shirt I've ever made! SILK!! I bought this stuff about a year ago at Michael Levine, and I've been terrified to cut into it ever since. "Horror" (or rather, difficult sounding) stories abound about working with silk. Jen @ Grainline has a post about cutting it between sheets of paper, and I know you're supposed to use silk pins. This all sounds fairly terrifying, so I stuck the silk deep into my stash and waited for strength.
Then along came Kelli and her True Bias Sutton Blouse pattern, and I slowly conjured the image of this silk shirt in my brain - and here it is! A year later and my sewing skills have vastly improved, and I even was brave enough to make my own silk bias binding. I will admit to almost flaking out on that though... but I'm happy I made the effort.
BTW - I totally cut it like normal (I did have to match up the stripes, with moderate success along the front), and used "dressmakers pins" which seem like slightly thinner pins without plastic heads.
Sutton has a pretty boxy shape, which I usually stay away from. See, I have a pretty strong hourglass shape, and fabric falling from chest to hip with no waist definition makes me feel/look like a square. BUT - I sized down one size, and I am quite happy with its flowing fit. This pattern definitely cries out for drapey, soft fabrics - stiff and structured fabrics need not apply.
In addition to my silk bias binding (lots of steam and understitching needed), I did full French seams throughout. During #bpsewvember (which I participated in until I got busy with work in the middle of the month), many people seemed to say that they loved using French seams as their favorite finish. This is not me. I hate doing French seams. Sure, I get why it is needed - it looks great, makes for pretty insides, etc. BUT it just takes too long to do! Ain't nobody got time for that.
However, the pattern instructions shamed me into doing them (in a good way!) - and I am quite pleased with myself.
The only real modification I made was to even out the high-low hem. I think it's a super cute detail, but I'm just not really into high-low hems on my own body. I lengthened the front at the lengthen/shorten line (I think this is the first time I've used this line for anything), and then remarked the slit - creating an even front and back hem, as seen below. Maybe on a future version I'll make it up as intended.
Overall, super great pattern! I haven't posted my Hudsons yet, but Kelli seriously makes the best PDF patterns. I'm not sure what it is exactly, but I have enjoyed putting together both of her PDF patterns more than any others ever. Just putting that out there!!
This is the first completed make from my Winter Wardrobe planning post (besides my Gingers, which were in-progress when I posted that) - and I already have 2 more fabrics planned for use with this pattern (including an impulse buy this weekend - oops), and my Antrho dream shirt lurking in the back of my mind.